Archive for Talon Series Acrylic NMF Paints

Buffing a NMF

Posted by: Gerald Voigt | Comments (0)

Both our SnJ Spray Metal and Talon Series NMF paints offer the ability to change the sheen and luster by buffing. In this video I show how you can do it without the need for polishing powders as well as get various tonal effects on different panels by masking prior to buffing.

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graywashtalonandpanelwash1I’m puttering around with a Tamiya F-84G, probably the third I’ve built…love the kit! This is the second one I’ve finished using my Talon acrylic paints. This one I am using to test various washes to highlight the panel details. On my first pass I used the beta test samples of the new Raptor Sheen I’m developing, mixed with gray left over from my F-22 project. It worked very well by brushing it on, allowing it to dry followed by a wipe with my thinner to remove the excess. However the light gray on aluminum was too subtle for me. A darker gray would have been better for this application.

Next I used some of my thinner and darkened it up with a little gloss black ( Model Master enamel). Again using a brush I applied it to the panel lines and it wicked alone the recesses very nicely. Once it had time to dry I used a  paper towel lightly dampened with Turpenoid to remove the access.  As you can see from the picture (right) it came out nicely.

smallfeltwheelThe panel details aren’t  “in your face” and will contribute well to the over all scheme and weathering I’m planning on using to finish the model. The paint colors for the NMF I used were aluminum and aluminum mixed with a little semigloss black acrylic (Tamiya) to get the slightly darker aluminum coloration mid ship. I also polished up the paint (NO powders used) with a felt wheel to give the surface some added luster after applying the wash. It is now ready for the additional scheme colors and decals.

Talon NMF Acrylic paint is easy to apply and is very durable. Low pressure and low volume,  applying several misted on coats to get the coverage desired.  If you screw something up…just use a little Windex to strip and remove, its that easy. Should you discover a blemish missed before applying the Talon, simply make your repairs and respray. You shouldn’t have any decernable color variation.

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HiVis F-16 Viper

Posted by: Gerald Voigt | Comments (4)

f16flro1Tamiya’s 1:48 F-16CJ is the kit that I picked to create a fictitious flight test chase plane which would be used to act as a safety observer for various flight testing scenarios and equipment. The model was primed with Tamiya Flat White then given a coat of Pactra Gloss White. I know I am not alone when I state that I wish RPM/Testor’s would reintroduce the Pactra line…it was a great paint! The Fluorescent Red Orange is my Hawkeye’s Talon Series Acrylic which too was applied over a primer of Tamiya Flat White.

The tail was actually painted three times. One the first attempt I was going to give the entire upper fuselage a red white and blue patriotic theme, but when I tried to correct a small speck of a booger in the red where it met the white…needless to say it went into the stripping tank (Windex) to remove all of the paint from the upper fuselage and tail (which were separate pieces…I left the subassemblies separate until painting was completed). One the second attempt, this time with just the tail itself, the stripes didn’t quite look right so it again went into the stripping tank.

On the third attempt after I had yet again having given it a primer of Tamiya Flat White I decided on a simpler paint scheme and chose to use my Fluorescent Red Orange.  The areas to receive the Orange are the tail, lower fins, wingtip missile rails and external fuel tanks…the centerline one will just receive a band of orange.

I’ve scavenging through my decal stash to come up with some plausible markings. I’ll post more images as the build progresses as well as point out some of the details such as the NMF leading edges.

Enjoy your Memorial Day weekend!

Still working on getting her finished but many have been asking so I’m going to share a few pictures of her as she is right now. I still have some touching up to do along with adding a couple more decals. Then its on to the  fiddly bits before I giver her some subtle weathering.

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The canopies were given a “Smoked Tint” treatment. I’ll share that technique in the near future…I think it worked well.

I haven’t forgotten about the B-24 Liberator, just took a short break from it. I’ve decided to start off giving her a really shiny finish first. Then I’ll be able to demonstrate how to weather it to get that worn and tired effect.  Again she’ll feature both shiny areas (restored) as well as well worn (unrestored) sections.

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I started out masking off a few panels to polish, but decided this was going to be too labor intensive so I opted to reverse my plans to start with a shiny base and tone back the panels using other shades of aluminum (tinted and non-tinted) as well as dull clear coats to oxidize the skin. Combine that with some weathering tricks and she’ll turn out as planned.

The tools I used to apply the Polishing Powder(s) is simple. A foam makeup applicator from the cosmetics department at the local drug store, some felt buffing wheels and points and a cotton buffing wheel all powered by my trusty cordless Dremel rotary tool. The polishing process using this mechanical advantage is quick and effective.

The Polishing Powder residue can be cleaned up with a paper towel dampened with water. The powder loves warmth and attaches itself to your fingers, so you’ll want to clean up the residue before applying any other colors or decals otherwise you’ll have chrome fingerprints or metallic finish where you don’t want it. Think of this the same as overspray…the difference is you can remove it with water and a paper towel.

Yeah that’s acrylic! And yes that is masking tape too! More on this project later, I just wanted to show those who are following this project it is still ALIVE!