Hawkeye’s Squawkbox

Finally I was able to spend a few minutes at the bench, not only to get ready for this segment but to also do a new tool eval for a major manufacturer…more on that later.

After some further sanding of both the cut out in the wing and of the aluminum panel I’m installing I’ve managed to get it in place. I use CA for speed purposes but one can use pieces of styrene to make little ledges for the panel to press against and a few drops of CA to hold it in place…I globbed it on and managed to stick myself to the project literally. Which meant I had to redo it and use some filler to feather the panel in place. Never enough time to do it right the first time, but always enough time to do it again.

There is even plenty of room left to do some interior scratch building of internal components. Though for this particular demo I will not be going that far, however I will show you were to resource the necessary parts to do so.

Now that the wing is “ready” having the aluminum panel installed, I’m going to paint both the inside (Interior Green?) and the upper wing (Olive Drab) so you can see the added realism that using metal provides.

Let’s review a bit though first, because it might be a few days before I can get the airbrush fired up to do this. First we are going to score the panel (since it is mounted…if it were separate I would punch the hole first) with our hobby knife. Score as many lines as you want tears (fingers) to appear. Once you have that done you can poke a hole using a pin…I’m using a T-Pin.

Pushing the pin through the center intersection of the scored lines should create the start of a blossom that you can start to grab with a fine tipped heavy duty tweezers or other suitable tool.

Then you can start to gently pull on the tips of the petals, tearing along the scored line. A little twisting and curling will also add realism. Remember your orientation to take in consideration airflow which the torn metal will have acting upon it.

Keep working the blossom until you are totally satisfied with your results…remember this is damage, not a perfect seam or panel line. It is replicating destruction.

Now compare the old school method used by MPC with that of what I am showing you here. The molded in damage has blunt “melted” looking edges. Whereas the aluminum looks more realistic…there is no substitute for metal…ask any body man who repairs cars.

Hope you’re following along, experimenting as we go. Practice makes perfection. Until next time…Happy Modeling!

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I’ve received a few emails from fellow modelers who follow my threads on the various forums asking me basic modeling How-To questions. So let’s do a bit of modeling 101, the basics.

Let’s start with workbenches and tools. A tour of my modeling bench where we’ll look at the various tools of the trade. Though each modelers bench is unique, they do share a lot of similarities. Also remember…“It’s not the bench that makes the model, it’s the modeler at the bench.” So each modeler’s bench is suitable to their needs, not necessarily to anyone else.

There are modelers who have limited space. Some have the space yet keep their work area small. Here is an example of one such bench. Everything is within easy reach. Paints, tools, paint booth, trash can and television! This modeler builds outstanding models from this little corner of a room in his home.

Workbenches may also need to meet certain household and child friendly requirements. When my boys were young I needed a bench that allowed me ample work room as well as means to secure it from little hands and fingers when I wasn’t using it.

My solution was making a self contained cabinet style bench that featured two doors that when opened, supported a fold up extension to the work surface. It could be closed up tight and locked.

Work benches can be small and cozy or huge and expansive. It all depends what you can facilitate and you are comfortable using.

Regardless of your bench layout, size or location there are some basic necessities you need.

Light! This is something that you can’t have too much of. Sunlight is best, but when you’re down in a basement, good warm artificial light is a must. Color correct or full spectrum is easier and more affordable than it once was, so if you can implement its use do so.

After light comes ventilation. You want your work area to be at a suitable temperature to keep you comfortable. But remember that many of the products you will be using have harmful fumes. You need adequate ventilation (exhaust venting preferred) to reduce the effects of inhalation of toxic fumes. I won’t harp on this topic, but please exercise some common sense.

Sitting or standing while you work. I prefer to stand, so my bench is high off the floor. I do have the appropriate drafting chair that gives me a place to sit when I need to. A comfortable supportive seat is, in my opinion important. For those of use who stand, an anti-fatigue mat is a must.

Now we have a place to work, sufficient light, adequately comfortable and a comfy chair. Let’s take a look at whats on the bench. As you can see in the picture of my current workshop, I have tool boxes for storage of my tools and accessories. These boxes have been recycled from storage of my mechanics tools when I upgraded to a Snap-On roll cab. Again these can be locked to keep little fingers out of things little kids should not have access to.

Tool and accessories need to be accessible. If you can’t find what your looking for at the exact moment you need it, disaster can occur. Been there done that. Probably one of the hardest disciplines in modeling is putting the tools back where they belong so they can be found when needed. GUILTY!

Workbenches evolve. My is constantly changing though the changes have slowed down to a crawl lately. At one time I kept my tools and accessories on top of the bench within easy reach. However, when I needed more work surface, I shifted towards the use of toolboxes and the drawers they contained. You can find various tool caddies, drawers, bins and containers to hold your “stuff.”

I’ve found that having all of my stuff on top of the bench made it prone to collecting dust from sanding, overspray from painting and sometimes it was just in the way of what I was doing.

Storing my stuff in drawers requires an extra step of opening a drawer, but it does solve the problems I mentioned. Again, you have to design your space to meet your needs and available resources. As your bench evolves and you collect more stuff you’ll find you need to adapt accordingly.

Keen organization is a must so everything is readily available when needed. Each modeler has his or her own methodology to their individual workbench and how they interact with it. My bench too does degrade into what some would call chaos while others see it as “normal.” This usually is the time when as some would say “the spirit leaves” and modeling becomes difficult. It is during these times I clean and organize the workshop, returning it to it’s “pristine” condition.

In the next segment we’ll take a closer look at what’s on the bench. Specifically the tools and the accessories I’ve acquired and found useful over the years. So until next time HAPPY MODELING!

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Test fitting of parts BEFORE assembly is essential part of building a scale model. Like the adage: “measure twice cut once.” Every modeler has their own methods of assembly. I advocate what works for you to do it. Unless your results are not up to your liking.

Test fitting is the only opportunity that you’ll have to adjust, correct, adapt and align before you commit to securing the part in place with cement. Following the kits instructions don’t necessarily provide the guidance to facilitate in advance the necessary processes to achieving this vital task. Experience is how modelers with advance skills know this.

Example: Here’s a commonly seen problem with clear parts. A gap between the canopy and the fuselage. This gap should have been discovered and addressed long before the painting took place. Now the risk of damaging the paint exists to fill the gap. Some may just use a little Krystal Klear or white glue to fill in the void but that may not solve the problem. You could end up with a canopy frame that looks too thick. Note how clean the fit is on the real aircraft.

When test fitting canopies ALWAYS use all of the sections…such as in this case the windscreen section, the opening section and the aft section. If you place one wrong, then all the others will not align or fit properly. I’ve made the mistake as I illustrated on this Me262 if you cement the forward and aft sections in without checking the fit of the center section. It won’t fit!

You may find that you need to either add some styrene to fill the gap, or use a filler medium such as putty. Your best course of action will be to first dip the canopy in Future, allow it to cure, then mask the canopy inside and out to protect the sections that need to remain clear.

There are times when all that is needed is a little sanding of the canopy. Once you’re 100% sure it is going to fit snug without anything more than a hair line gap, you can set it aside until such time as it is needed.

It’s also not unheard of that you may have to do some serious filing and sanding to get a canopy to contour to the fuselage.The goal is to get the tolerance as tight as you possibly can. The tighter the less adhesive you need to secure it and the more realistic the appearance. Be sure to look at photographs of the real aircraft you are modeling. Take note of how the canopies blend into the fuselage. Some have distinct panel lines, others have none.

I prefer to attach my canopies with…get ready…liquid cements. The same ones I use throughout the build. Either Tenax or Weld-On #3. If the canopy is protected with Future, the solvents shouldn’t have any effect on the canopy sections. As with the P-47 illustrated above, the dipped canopy is also masked, which protects the clear areas from any needed filling, sanding and polishing necessary for a smooth transition between the clear and the colored styrenes.

The trick is to have as tight a tolerance of fit between the two, apply the solvent first to the fuselage, then set the canopy in place. This should give you a tight seal, which can be dressed up and touched up with a little Mr. Surfacer if needed. Then it’s ready to be painted.

Use a digital camera to take pictures of your work as you go along. Review the photos to spot flaws and errors. The camera seems to see them much better than the naked eye. The digital camera is yet another technological advancement in scale modeling. Even an inexpensive one will help you improve your modeling skills. I’m still learning about this hobby and I’ve been at it for nearly forty years!

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