Archive for Scale Modeling-Tools
Encore: Scale Modeling Photography
Posted by: | CommentsOkay, let me preference this article by stating I am by no means a professional photographer. In fact, the last time I even took a basic photography class was back in junior high school which was a long time ago. I did do a short stint as a photographer in the USAF, so I guess I can say that I do know how to take a decent picture. Studio photography was never my thing…I prefer the great outdoors, air shows or mishap investigative type work. The PR shots were left to someone who knew what they were doing. Other than that I am self taught and probably wasted as much film as the next person…thank goodness for digital cameras. Since getting my first, my collection of Cannon 35mm SLR’s have been inactive.
Let’s start with the equipment. I have two small pocket type digital cameras that I use to photograph my modeling subjects. Hopefully, I’ll graduate to a digital SLR someday when it is within the budget.
I prefer doing close up work with the Kodak because it has a macro setting and it has a rechargeable battery. The Sony loves to eat ‘AA’ batteries, but is great for normal snap shots indoors and out. Both cameras were relatively inexpensive…well under $200. In fact the Kodak was a package deal with a docking station/printer we found on closeout at our local Radio Shack.
Set your camera to take the highest resolution images as possible. This means your memory will not hold as many pictures but when you go to edit them it provides for better pictures. Holding the camera when doing up close and personal photography isn’t easy. The slightest little shake can routine a great picture. Use a tripod to hold your camera and the self timer to trigger the shutter. I have a mini tripod as well as a full sized one. Both are inexpensive.
Lighting is next, I made do with the lights I had around the house but it got to be a pain setting up and returning them only to find out the pictures didn’t turn out and had to be retaken. So, with a budget equivalent of the price of a model kit ($50 or less) I made a trip over to the local home improvement store.
I’ve seen other photographers using fluorescent lamps before so that’s where I started. I picked up the brightest (most wattage) full spectrum bulbs the store had. They were under $8.00 each. I started with three but added two more later when I went to a larger photo setup. Then in the electrical department I found these contractors lamps which clamp on to most surfaces. I use a paper towel (no printed pictures on them) as light diffusers held in place with clothes pins. The compact fluorescents throw very little heat so as long as you are attending them, you shouldn’t have any issues, just turn off the lights when done!
Using one inch PVC pipe, some elbow fittings, a bed sheet, an extension cord and of course the lights to make a table top set up like this. This is my first attempt at making my own booth. The whole deal was under $50, I was able to get everything on sale! The bulbs were the single most expensive item at just under $7.00 each. The sheet was $2.99. The PVC supports the sheet which acts as the light diffuser and gives a surface to clamp the lights onto.
Here is one I purchased at Wal-Mart for the same price I have invested in my homemade unit. I like mine much better, but this one is good for doing production work like taking pictures of paint bottles for catalog shots.
Backgrounds can be just about anything that is neutral in color and without texture. Or you can pose your model in front of a picture. I purchased a roll of paper from a supplier that was listed in a FSM article about this same subject. The roll was about $40 and will last me a long long time.
To edit my pictures I use nothing more than the software that came with my laptop computer. In this case an HP. The software is very basic and easy to use. I do have the full Adobe suite which includes Photoshop, but I tend not to use it. For one it isn’t on my computer so it isn’t necessarily handy when I am trying to post up a picture.
The editing software allows me to adjust the images (light & contrast adjustment at the push of a button), crop and select file size and type. Here is an example of a before and after:
If you are doing demonstration pictures, be sure to make yourself a reference point on you bench so what you are attempting to show is in the camera field of view. Before you proceed on, check the picture to see if it is in fact what you wanted. It is hard to rewind after the glue has dried!
To add lines, circles, boxes and text to an image I again use the software that came with my laptop in this case it is a program called ‘Paint’. A little practice and you can figure out the rudiments of using it.
I’ve made myself a studio that now holds all of my rolls of background paper so they are conveniently available to pull down to change color. I have the original blue mentioned above as well as white and black. I will be adding other colors as necessary because I find myself doing more commercial product photography for our marketing clients.
The lighting I used originally is still in use, but I have stepped up to add some new components such has some umbrella reflectors and strobes. I didn’t drop a huge wad of cash on these either. To conserve I opted to not purchase the “Best” but the most affordable. I wanted to see what I could or could not do, or whether it was going to improve on what I was already doing. I will say it has made significant improvements in what I can do. I found this equipment by shopping on Amazon.com. 
My photography is quickly becoming more of a second profession than a hobby. I am providing images for some of our clients as well as for myself. If you haven’t noticed the ad for Images By Hawkeye, here on my page you should check out some of the fun I am having.Some of my images appear in the ads we have designed for our clients projects. I hit total geek the other day when I hooked up an old small LCD TV/monitor to my camera so I could view what the camera seeing as I need to have both hands in front of it as part of the shot. I used a remote shutter release to trigger the shutter release.
Tool Tip: Sanding
Posted by: | CommentsOne of the most challenging tasks during the course of building a scale model comes from sanding inside tight places. Flex-i-File solves one such problem as I illustrate here. Sanding the inside of a complex tubular frame work such as that on this Bell 47 helicopter tail boom. I slip the sanding band through each of the triangular openings then hook it back up to the frame to sand.
Remember the right tool makes the job easier and the results better.
Scale Modeling Tips: Hold That Model III
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Couple of quick tips for Holding that model. First the simple but always useful clothespin. I like to reverse the wooden parts to make a better and longer clamp that can be augmented with a rubber band to give the jaws greater tension.
Cooper tubing becomes an impromptu handle. I used two pieces of cooper tubing which were inserted into the wheel bays of my E-2 Hawkeye to facilitate holding while painting it. I used a short piece of masking tape to hole the two ends together to make holding them easier on the hands.
Project: Tinkle Bug-Battering The Bug
Posted by: | CommentsI started this project a long time ago and during the time it has sat, waiting my return, my plans for it have changed some what. Instead of adding the bug eyed blister windows (which I never got finished) I decided to stay a little less complicated ( can still add them later since the door are separate pieces from the main canopy). This is a civilian CH-46, one acquired and restored to use in heavy lift operations such as fire fighting, aerial crane and logistical support for industry applications.
Since this ship was going to get battered, that is show a lot of wear and tear I knew that I needed to prep the fuselage with a Nature Metal Finish as a base. I used SnJ Spray Metal Aluminum which once dry…a matter of a few minutes after spraying I started to polish with a blend of my Steel and Aluminum Polishing Powders.
Using a my Dremel rotary tool equipped with and alternating between a cotton buffing wheel and a felt wheel I worked the finish into a nice shine. You can see the basics of how this is done in this video. I wiped it down with a paper towel dampened with water and let it sit for a day or two to fully cure.
At first I was thinking an elaborate and colorful paint scheme, but that meant hours of work masking, painting, masking, painting which I really didn’t feel like doing knowing that I was going to beat the paint to death during the weathering process. So I decided to stick with one base color, a light gray as well as some of my SnJ Spray Metal Fluorescent Red Orange for some high visibility accents.
I applied the gray and let it cure…for a couple of days. Oh, I previously masked the window plexi with liquid mask and tape then stuffed some foam into the openings to prevent over spray from getting inside the fuselage.
Once the gray (Model Master enamel) I use masking tape to mask for the panels that were to receive the HiVis Orange. A band around the forward fuselage a patch on the upper and another narrow band around the aft fuselage. There will also be a black band down the center length of the fuselage. I’ll explain the reason for these bands later.
After I painted on the HiVis Orange I started to remove the masking tape immediately after cleaning my airbrush. I encouraged the masking tape to pull up the gray paint…if it didn’t pull even the slightest amount I would burnish down the tape and try again. I was after a chipping effect as the first stage of heavily battering this Bug as part of the weathering process.
Once the HiVis Orange had cured I used masking tape again, applied over the orange to induce paint lifting. I will say it didn’t want to lift even after repeated burnishing and removal of the tape! I had to use a scribe to etch at the panel lines to get it to chip some to give the tape a chance at lifting it.
I used a scribing tool to run along all of the recessed panel lines to induce more chipping. I let the tool do the work and the paint chip as it wished. After I had done that, I went around and again using a piece of masking tape worked the seams to see if I could pull more paint away.
Then using a pen I highlighted the panel lines and details, working in small sections and wiping the excess away in the appropriate direct as it would be influenced by rotor wash and gravity. I next applied the registration markings and “Rescue” decals which I sourced from my spares stash. Then I applied the walk ways from the kit’s sheet. Not sure if the “Rescue” decals will stay, they didn’t lay down as well as I had hoped, they weren’t in the best shape to start with having been salvaged from a damaged sheet from a Rescue 911 Huey kit. I may replace them with dry transfers.
I’m at the point now of slipping in the seats and control sticks so I can install the nose blister and doors. I am also going to either find or make some anchor points to hold a lifting frame which I am going to scratch build under the helo. I’m having fun, hope you are in your modeling efforts too. More to come on this project soon.
Nuts For Scale Modeling
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Yeah we’re all a bit nuts, it is a prerequisite to become a scale modeler! But did you know that nuts, more specifically Walnuts are both a dandy resource for scale modeling and good for the modeler as well? I didn’t either until I did a little reading.
Seems that Walnuts are a good source of Omega-3 fatty acids which helps to lower cholesterol, which is good for the modeler. The shells are used for many applications such as cleansing and polishing, drilling in the petroleum industry, as a flour in the plastics industry, a paint thickener and as a cosmetic skin cleanser.
What modeling applications do Walnuts have? Well several. If the shells are ground up (you can use an inexpensive coffee grinder for this) you can create a soil like material suitable for use on dioramas. Coarsely ground is suitable for gravel and rocks. Finely ground and you have a material suitable to be used as sand or dirt. Stir in a little binding agent of your choice and you can create a nice mud wash which can be applied to tires and tracks, as well as the base of a diorama.
It is a substance which you can control the consistency and size (scale) of by how much you grind it…french press or espresso!
So the next time you’re looking for something to munch on as a snack while at the bench, think Walnuts (whole in the shell) they can serve two purposes…scale modeling resource and fuel to power the scale modeler…you.
If you haven’t tried Walnuts and Dark Chocolate Chips…you should! Mmmm!
