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Archive for Progressive Model Build – Page 2

Fading and Detailing

by Gerald Voigt
December 20th, 2010

So you’re not a paint mixologist and you don’t want to try overspraying a nicely done scheme with a light mist of gray or off-white to replicate a fading paint effect. Why not do what paint does…remove and scuff it slightly!

One of the ways you can fade a paint scheme to make it look worn is to start with the appropriate base color…such as a NMF, aluminum will work. Then apply your paint scheme such as I have here. Once the scheme is applied and cured, give it a light sanding to etch away the paint to give it a faded and worn look.

I used a sanding block from Alpha Abrasives. USE A LIGHT TOUCH!

I left the area in the center undone so you can see the difference.

Once that is complete you can make the panel and rivet details pop by using a water based marker…such as this one. I used Gray as my chosen color but you can use what ever color you want/need to get the desired contrast.
You’ve seen me do this same technique on NMF surfaces. As I stated then it does work for colored schemes as well. I used Model Master Enamels here but this technique can be used on acrylics too. Give this a try on a test mule to see how it works for you.

Photo Courtesy of the US Navy.

If you want you can do some corrosion control by applying paint blotches as if someone used a rattle can to seal up the areas showing corrosion. A worn workhorse will have just such applications…usually by a new troop and spray cans from differing manufacturers lot numbers! Like this guy painting a piece of support equipment.

Categories How-To, Progressive Model Build, Scale Modeling-Tools, Tips & Techniques
Comments (2)

Paper Towel Camo Masking

by Gerald Voigt
December 16th, 2010

Typically I freehand my camo schemes, but on occasion I will use this Paper Towel Masking method to create a pattern. First I tear paper towel in to irregular shapes, mostly strips that I can use as the masks needed for the various colors. I use the same (cheap) paper towels I use for cleaning up and working in the shop. Nothing special at all.

Start with a base color…here I used a desert tan or sand color, masked and applied areas of a green. With the green dry I masked off for the third color, this time since I didn’t have a brown handy I mix some colors together to get one…TLAR (That Looks About Right).

Here you can see that I am randomly placing the paper towel masks to apply the third color (brown). I had no plan as far as how it was going to go, what ever looked right to me at the time.

If your aircraft has swing wings, you might want to do some planning as to the placement of any of the colors align with the wings in both the forward and aft swept position…I didn’t because my wings are glued in the full forward position.

For this project I used enamels, but it will work for acrylics as well. In fact I prefer acrylics more because they are so much easier to blend and weather.

With the brown applied it is time to remove the masks. The nice thing about this method is you can go back and paint areas and parts you didn’t get the first time around. Just keep track of the paint you used. If you blended/mixed paints, make sure you have enough extra to hit these areas you missed.

A couple of tips…apply from a 90 degree angle to the surface. This keeps the air from the airbrush from lifting the masking away from the surface. Since the paper towel isn’t laying flush against the surface you will get a soft edge. The irregular shape of the torn paper towel edge will give a nice pattern as well.

I use clothes pins and masking tape to pull the paper towel taunt and keep it in place. You can also wrap a rubber band around it as well as I did on the nose section.

If there is a specific pattern you want, draw it out on the paper towel first, then carefully tear it along those lines to make your masks. Nice thing with this is it is cheap and disposable!

Now that all this paint is one and cured, its time to start to scuff it up a bit to begin the weathering process.  Then I’ll decide which Middle Eastern Axis of Evil markings to apply and add them as well. I have a story in the works about the Merlin which takes place over the Liberian Desert. It might just be one of the Merlin’s prey.

This isn’t the first time I used paper towels as a masking material…remember my Tiger Striped DC-8?

Categories Progressive Model Build, Tips & Techniques
Comments (7)

Phantom II Update

by Gerald Voigt
December 7th, 2010

Hasegawa 1:48 RF-4 Phantom II

The RF-4 has received a NMF and a PITT Pen wash along with some anti glare areas using flat black. The base is Talon acrylic NMF which was given a high sheen using some Polishing Powders (50/50 of Aluminum & Steel mixed together). Once that was applied and buffed it was allowed to cure for a few days while I did other tasks.

Using some masking tape I selected panels and in certain places entire sections to be give applications of different shades of aluminum which were tinted using other base colors. Some of the areas were Talon while others were SnJ Spray Metal.  Once those had dried I started to us a PITT Pen to apply the wash to highlight the panels and panel lines. See my video on how to do this.

Once satisfied with the detailing achieved by the PITT Pens I gave the entire model a seal coat using SnJ Spray Metal Clear Metal. The next step is to start applying the other colors for the scheme, decals and finish the other areas not yet complete such as the cockpit. Stay Tuned.

Categories Progressive Model Build, Scale Modeling-Tools, Tips & Techniques
Comments (1)
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