Hawkeye’s Squawkbox

I dug through my spares stash for a couple of the old IMC combat damaged parts to show how a more realistic 3D battle damage can be created.

I’m going to use a wing section from a 1:48 P-51 as my demo example. This part of the series will address recessing a panel so it is flush with the surrounding surfaces. Later I will show you how to install a surface laminated method.

The first step is to select the panel area where you want to impose the battle damage to. Once you do mark it so you don’t mistake another one.

Now we need to make a master pattern. I like to use Tamiya tape since it is transparent and easily burnished to reveal the panel lines underneath. Lay a piece of tape over the area. You can also use tracing paper and a pencil to mark the panel lines.

Once you have the tape in place you can cut along the panel lines surrounding the panel you are going to

apply the inflict the damage to.

Then take either the center or the outside of the panel you cut and transfer

that onto the piece of aluminum you are going to use to make your replacement panel from.

I used the outside, but either will work. It acts as a pattern and guide for you to do your cutting. If you are really good, you’ll be able to get it exact with the first cut. I purposely made mine a bit rough so I can demo the trimming and fitting process.

Once you rough cut around the piece to be removed with a tin snips or scissors, you can go along and do the final cuts with a PE Shear in desired or needed.

After you get this panel section removed from the metal sheet, set it aside for now. Your gonna be occupied for a while as you remove the area where this panel is going to be inserted.

To make faster work of the removal of the panel I use my Dremel with various bits to grind away the plastic I need removed.

Once you have the center of the panel carved out you have two options, recess the remaining area by scrapping with a knife or remove it all the way to the edge of the panel line. I chose the latter for this demonstration.

I try to let the Dremel do most of the removal, then once close, I finish off the rest with a flat file so I have a straight uniform edge all the way around the opening.

At some point you should have a nice square opening the exact (well close anyway) size as the panel you’re going to be replacing.

You can then start to trim the metal replacement panel so it fits snuggly inside the opening with little to no gaps.

I need to work on both my opening and panel before I continue on with part three of this How-To. I’ll work on that. You start looking for reference photo or illustrations of what the insides of a Mustangs wing looks like.

In the next segment, I’ll install the panel and with luck (I haven’t done this for more than a decade or two) this panel should look like nothing was replaced.

Then we can prepaint both the outside and inside as well as add any decaling that might cover this area.

So until next time…Happy Modeling!

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I’ve received a few emails from fellow modelers who follow my threads on the various forums asking me basic modeling How-To questions. So let’s do a bit of modeling 101, the basics.

Let’s start with workbenches and tools. A tour of my modeling bench where we’ll look at the various tools of the trade. Though each modelers bench is unique, they do share a lot of similarities. Also remember…“It’s not the bench that makes the model, it’s the modeler at the bench.” So each modeler’s bench is suitable to their needs, not necessarily to anyone else.

There are modelers who have limited space. Some have the space yet keep their work area small. Here is an example of one such bench. Everything is within easy reach. Paints, tools, paint booth, trash can and television! This modeler builds outstanding models from this little corner of a room in his home.

Workbenches may also need to meet certain household and child friendly requirements. When my boys were young I needed a bench that allowed me ample work room as well as means to secure it from little hands and fingers when I wasn’t using it.

My solution was making a self contained cabinet style bench that featured two doors that when opened, supported a fold up extension to the work surface. It could be closed up tight and locked.

Work benches can be small and cozy or huge and expansive. It all depends what you can facilitate and you are comfortable using.

Regardless of your bench layout, size or location there are some basic necessities you need.

Light! This is something that you can’t have too much of. Sunlight is best, but when you’re down in a basement, good warm artificial light is a must. Color correct or full spectrum is easier and more affordable than it once was, so if you can implement its use do so.

After light comes ventilation. You want your work area to be at a suitable temperature to keep you comfortable. But remember that many of the products you will be using have harmful fumes. You need adequate ventilation (exhaust venting preferred) to reduce the effects of inhalation of toxic fumes. I won’t harp on this topic, but please exercise some common sense.

Sitting or standing while you work. I prefer to stand, so my bench is high off the floor. I do have the appropriate drafting chair that gives me a place to sit when I need to. A comfortable supportive seat is, in my opinion important. For those of use who stand, an anti-fatigue mat is a must.

Now we have a place to work, sufficient light, adequately comfortable and a comfy chair. Let’s take a look at whats on the bench. As you can see in the picture of my current workshop, I have tool boxes for storage of my tools and accessories. These boxes have been recycled from storage of my mechanics tools when I upgraded to a Snap-On roll cab. Again these can be locked to keep little fingers out of things little kids should not have access to.

Tool and accessories need to be accessible. If you can’t find what your looking for at the exact moment you need it, disaster can occur. Been there done that. Probably one of the hardest disciplines in modeling is putting the tools back where they belong so they can be found when needed. GUILTY!

Workbenches evolve. My is constantly changing though the changes have slowed down to a crawl lately. At one time I kept my tools and accessories on top of the bench within easy reach. However, when I needed more work surface, I shifted towards the use of toolboxes and the drawers they contained. You can find various tool caddies, drawers, bins and containers to hold your “stuff.”

I’ve found that having all of my stuff on top of the bench made it prone to collecting dust from sanding, overspray from painting and sometimes it was just in the way of what I was doing.

Storing my stuff in drawers requires an extra step of opening a drawer, but it does solve the problems I mentioned. Again, you have to design your space to meet your needs and available resources. As your bench evolves and you collect more stuff you’ll find you need to adapt accordingly.

Keen organization is a must so everything is readily available when needed. Each modeler has his or her own methodology to their individual workbench and how they interact with it. My bench too does degrade into what some would call chaos while others see it as “normal.” This usually is the time when as some would say “the spirit leaves” and modeling becomes difficult. It is during these times I clean and organize the workshop, returning it to it’s “pristine” condition.

In the next segment we’ll take a closer look at what’s on the bench. Specifically the tools and the accessories I’ve acquired and found useful over the years. So until next time HAPPY MODELING!

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One of the challenges of this build is some of the modifications needed to convert the CH-46 into a plausible fire fighter. Of these challenges one is the observers blisters in the aft cabin. As well as the bug eyed windows for the flight crew so they all can have greater downward visibility.

First the aft observers station blisters. I started with a piece of balsa wood from the stash and cut it into a rough shape slightly larger than the opening it will fit. Then I shaped it to fit inside…loose is okay it doesn’t have to be snug. The vacformed canopy will take up some of the space.

After I have the balsa plug fitted, I traced it on yet another piece of wood. I sand this piece down to a similar size and shape

and glue the two piece togetherto double up the thickness.

Once that has dried solid I added a third piece of wood to the stack.

After is had dried I started shaping it with my course sanding stick and my Dremel with a rotary drum sander attachment. I roughed out the shape for the blister window with a flat botton which would give the observer a clear undistorted downward view.

The next step will be to vacform the blisters. Then it will be onto making the flight crew doors/blisters. I may try two different approaches with this. One being using the door frame and blister out just the window sections to make one big blister window within the door’s frame. The second I will make a composite one piece blister/door that has some metal re-enforcements where needed.

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