TSR-2 Part II

This kits is a relative easy build. It does have a few minor fit issues that can be addressed by using various techniques. The most important one being repeated test fitting and adjustment of both the parts and the sequence of assembly. There were a couple of places where I needed to add filler in the form of cardstock, stretched sprue or filler.

inletseamtopofwingI found the intakes needing the addition of cardstock to fill the gap. This was the best solution, though it did require a bit of filing, sanding and polishing to blend it in. But worth the time spent. The other major seam issue I had to deal with was the upper fuselage panels and wing. A suggestion came along (unfortunately too late for me) from Jon Bius of fitting the panels to the wing before attaching them to the upper fuselage. In hindsight his suggestion has merit wish I had done it that way myself. I filled the front gap with stretched sprue and the aft with filler putty.

The use of the putty allowed me to create a smooth transition from the aft section of the wing to the upper fuselage. I used masking tape, applied along and to protect panel lines in the wingtoparea where I only wanted it applied. I did not want to deal with having to remove or feather the putty over a large area, just the panel(s) necessary to get the smooth transition.  Remember to apply putty in several thin layers, not one heavy one. Let each dry before applying the next layer. After the putty had cured solid I removed the masking tape then sanded and polished it into shape. Satisfied with the results I then rescribed any panel lines that were covered or compromised.

maskedandtintedWith the seams all sanded and polished I turned my attention to the edges of the wings to ensure there were no gaps left between the upper and lower surfaces. Finding none I sanded and polished those to prep them for painting. This as I said was going to get painted with Talon Series Acrylic NMF paints.

I’ve been repeatedly asked if the Talon Series Acrylic NMF Paints can be tinted like the SnJ Spray Metals can. The answer is: YES! This project will be used to test the tinting of the Talon with other manufacturer’s products. So far I have given the aircraft an overall application of Talon Series-Aluminum.  I misted on several light coats to get the coverage I desired then allowed it to cure for a couple of days.

tintedmaskofftintedwblueUsing masking tape I masked to protect the areas around the panels I selected to apply the first different tint to. In this case I added some Tamiya Gloss Black to the Aluminum I had been using to apply the base color. Just a couple of lightly misted layers to get the coverage, then removed the tape to reveal the panels.

I’ll be experimenting with Blues, Browns, Grays as well as other colors and manufacturers paints too. I do recommend that you use glossy acrylic paints to keep the sheen consistant for decaling. You can always apply a flat after the decals are applied to reduce the luster.

This is getting interesting! I want to get the painting do so I can apply the decals I have selected from the spares stash to create the What-If TSR-2 I have thought up. More on painting and a bit of polishing in the next segment.

Comments

  1. AL JONES says:

    I don’t know how it happened exactly. I was told this story by the previous generation of local modelers. Apparently, the early paints were all gloss. Modelers complained that the paint on the full scale machines was flat. So, modelers were offered the option of having their paints in glossy or flat form by the paint manufacturers. Modelers were quite short sighted when they chose flat paints because they wanted the paint to look as close to scale as possible for their military models. At that time, modelers forgot that decals need to be applied to glossy surfaces. So, we got the paint we wanted and had to then learn to apply a gloss cote before decal application and then add a third coat of clear flat to match the flat paint. We should have kept the gloss paints. aj

  2. Gerald Voigt says:

    That may be true. However those who use dry transfers prefer the texture of flat paints. It not only looks realistic but also accepts the transfer better than a glossy surface. Nothing stays glossy unless you work darn hard to keep it that way…look at my car! In the military anything that reflects light gives the enemy an advantage…first seen, first to die. Hence the use of flat paint to curb reflectivity.

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