It is funny how things happen in threes. In the past two days three people have contacted me asking how the panel line effect was achieved on the Zeppelin model I used in my banner. We’ll let’s take another peek at how Roger Witt achieved this scale modeling tip.
Having just finished assembling a 1/245th Graf Zeppelin I needed some way to break up the huge all aluminum surface area. There needed to be some darker panels and a little highlighting for the ribs. My first test was to mask and spray several panels black, white or dark gray. Then I over sprayed everything with SnJ Spray Metal Aluminum. It worked but far too many coats to tone down the contrast. Rather than spray the panels with SnJ Spray Metal Dark Aluminum or tinting the regular Aluminum I used SnJ Spray Metal Clear, aka Decal Sealer. It has the same base and finish as the Aluminum only no pigment. I would fill my airbrush cup about half full of sealer and add a drop or two of black (I used Floquil). By this time the entire airship was finished in SnJ Spray Metal Aluminum. I went back and masked the panels I wanted darker and then over spayed them with the doctored Spray Metal Clear. It was a very subtle change. You need to pull up a section of tape so that you can actually see the difference. Some panels got more passes than others. A couple of panels were over sprayed with Spray Metal Clear and a drop or two of white. As usual a couple of panels were too different so I simple over sprayed them with a light coat of Aluminum.
When I was happy with the panels I placed vertical strips around the fuselage to represent internal ribs. I then sprayed as narrow a strip of Spray Metal Clear and black as I could manage along the aft edge of the tape. Removing the tape left a nice, straight subtle line. This is better that free handing and more accurate than simply spraying here and there. I also masked the stationary part of the fins and sprayed the hinge lines giving the control surfaces some depth.
The passenger gondola and engine nacelles were sprayed with SNJ Dark Aluminum for contrast.
There are many ways to achieve these results but I happen to like the SMCLR with toning added. It can be very subtle or dramatic and is quite easy to control. The final finish has sheen and texture as the Aluminum so the model has a very convincing overall appearance.
Roger’s method is very simple as opposed to pre and post shading of panel lines. This method also allows one to create the illusion of panel lines where none exist. This is very useful for those models of yesteryear which had limited detailing and are gaining in popularity yet again with novices and experienced builders alike.
Great tip. One problem though-I choose to use the Talon acrylic NMF paint. Could I do the same thing by adding a drop or two of black to some Future and spraying?
Thanks
Bob
I would think Future to be too thick and it is probably too glossy of a sheen. You might try using Polly S satin or gloss…I’ve had great luck it. Friend, fellow club member and FSM reviewer “Doc” Funcke recommended it to me and I have been using it ever since.
hey there GV. Very v-e-r-y nice work by the way! Just curious, with all that’s possible with the metalizer finishes, powders, dry rag rubbing, etc…would the basecoat (or primer color) provide the color/shading difference in a project like this? I haven’t tried it your way (yet!) but hoping for some input there from ya. Again dude, very nice job. You definitely have great hands and eyes to pull off some of the stuff you do!
Kevin C.