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	<title>Comments on: Modeling With Photo Etched Parts</title>
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	<link>http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2009/01/09/modeling-with-photo-etched-parts/</link>
	<description>Tips, Comments, Editorials Relating to the World of Scale Modeling</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 08 Mar 2010 17:19:39 -0700</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: George</title>
		<link>http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2009/01/09/modeling-with-photo-etched-parts/comment-page-1/#comment-603</link>
		<dc:creator>George</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Mar 2009 21:36:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/?p=240#comment-603</guid>
		<description>Hi Gerald,  

I&#039;ve been doing photo etched for about 15 years now. mainly on 1/350th ships. I&#039;m now doing the SS US with the GMM p/e set. Because I&#039;m now 48 and using reading glasses for the first time, its become a real bear.

I&#039;d love to hear your advise for attaching ship railings using CA. I use the old fashioned super glue brand, that is very free flowing. The gel is just too thick in this case. I try to use as little as possible but always end up bumping a piece off that has to be re-glued.

After all these years I still haven&#039;t found the best way to glue railings without getting CA in the fine detail of it, while still adding enough to hold it. I usually use a pin to add the ca, or this spread it on a flat surface and dip the bottom of the rail in it then attach. You have to be quick though..maybe 2-3 seconds before it grabs.

I cut p/e on a small sheet of glass with a scalpel x-acto blade btw.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Gerald,  </p>
<p>I&#8217;ve been doing photo etched for about 15 years now. mainly on 1/350th ships. I&#8217;m now doing the SS US with the GMM p/e set. Because I&#8217;m now 48 and using reading glasses for the first time, its become a real bear.</p>
<p>I&#8217;d love to hear your advise for attaching ship railings using CA. I use the old fashioned super glue brand, that is very free flowing. The gel is just too thick in this case. I try to use as little as possible but always end up bumping a piece off that has to be re-glued.</p>
<p>After all these years I still haven&#8217;t found the best way to glue railings without getting CA in the fine detail of it, while still adding enough to hold it. I usually use a pin to add the ca, or this spread it on a flat surface and dip the bottom of the rail in it then attach. You have to be quick though..maybe 2-3 seconds before it grabs.</p>
<p>I cut p/e on a small sheet of glass with a scalpel x-acto blade btw.</p>
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		<title>By: Gerald Voigt</title>
		<link>http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2009/01/09/modeling-with-photo-etched-parts/comment-page-1/#comment-365</link>
		<dc:creator>Gerald Voigt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Feb 2009 17:11:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/?p=240#comment-365</guid>
		<description>You very welcome John, it is my way of &quot;giving back&quot; to a hobby that has been so rewarding to me.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You very welcome John, it is my way of &#8220;giving back&#8221; to a hobby that has been so rewarding to me.</p>
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		<title>By: John Tamasik</title>
		<link>http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2009/01/09/modeling-with-photo-etched-parts/comment-page-1/#comment-364</link>
		<dc:creator>John Tamasik</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Feb 2009 17:07:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/?p=240#comment-364</guid>
		<description>Hawkeye, like always your tips and such are so imformative, I look forward to the Squawkbox in my mailbox. 
Thanks again,John</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hawkeye, like always your tips and such are so imformative, I look forward to the Squawkbox in my mailbox.<br />
Thanks again,John</p>
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