Tiger DC-8
By · CommentsThis post includes an encore appearance of the How-To article “Paper Towel Tiger Stripes”, which I published in my newsletter some time ago. I have revisited this build, its been on the shelf of projects not yet completed, this one happened to be one. It also served as inspiration to use the technique on another project, a UH-1H also gracing the shelf. Which I include in this revised article.
Paper Towel Tiger Stripes
Inspiration is the mother of invention. So as a graduate of MacGyver Institute with a PhD in Utilization of Available Resources, I’ve managed to come up with a simple way to create a unique paint scheme using nothing more than paper towel and a little masking tape.
This particular project evolved to this point because of two other failed schemes (long story) so with the count being two strikes against me, I decided to try something out of the ordinary. Given my propensity for ‘What-If’ subjects, it wasn’t too far out of the box for me.
First step is to take a sheet of paper towel and tear it in narrow strips, which can be challenging. You want the edges to be jagged. Once you have the paper towel torn, cut some small strips of masking tape. These will be used to hold the paper towel in place by fastening the paper towel to itself. NOTE: I have given the model a base color of Neutral Gray.
At random intervals wrap the towel strips around the model and tape snugly into place…kinda’like fastening a infants diaper.
After the bands were all in place I prepped my airbrush with some properly thinned Air Mobility Gray. I sprayed along the edges of the paper towel bands, keeping it as close to the paper as possible…the little bit of overspray is fine as it adds to the effect.
Paint along both sides of all of the bands. Once this is done, remove the bands from the model.
Let this sit and dry for a while. Then apply new bands, again positioning them at random intervals, some close to the existing lines, others away…it all depends on the widths of the new bands. Once you have them in place, either use a new color, or in my case I added some flat black to the Air Mobility Gray to darken it even further. I again sprayed it along the edges of the bands.
Once painting was completed I removed the bands. Now I have a unique three toned tiger camo scheme. This can be done in any color combination. It’s ‘outside-of-the-box’ and best of all it was easy and it is FUN!
The hardest decision at this point was what markings to use, I decided to go with a military theme and here is my progress thus far.
Since the wings and engines were already done as part of the previous two attempts, I left them as is…they still contrast rather well.
So next time you want to create something a little different, remember this technique. It has several applications…go for it!
Addendum
One of the purposes for revisiting this application technique was to repaint the wings of this DC-8. The longer I contemplated it I wasn’t 100% satisfied with the look of the “factory” or “standard airline” scheme they were initially painted. They needed something else. I started off trying to replicate the original scheme which the fuselage was painted…but it took on a different look.
A look that I really like because it too will be used on future projects that need a really unique scheme as well.
This scheme was created the same way, with one exception. I kept relocating the paper towel masking with each color change. No preset plan just random. I did work from lighter to darker colors, three were used. I would think this would be great for use with trios of grays, greens or even a mixture of colors.
I can envision a gray/white/black arctic scheme! On a vehicle using this techique could make for some neat urban camo schemes too!
As I mentioned in my intro, I had a UH-1 that had a scheme I wasn’t exactly thrilled with, so it too got wrapped in paper towel and given a two tone “aggressor” scheme. This application has thin spots throughout it to replicate that the scheme was hastily applied in the field.
I goofed on this one, I should have done the lighter color first…but it still turned out okay.
This Huey will get a dark wash to bring out the highlights and give it a heavily used and tired looking appearance.
As for the DC-8, I’m still deciding whether or not to stand her up on her landing gear or finish her wheels up to hang near the YF-75 Merlin. She’ll be included in a supporting role in the continuing episodes about the Merlin as she hauls Merlin’s support crews and equipment. A few more decals, touching up of the canopy, filling in the black on the insides of the window frames, put on outlines for the missing exits and cargo door.
TIP: On insides or places where the paper towel doesn’t want to contour flush to the surface. That’s a good time to use a gloved finger to hold the paper towel down while spraying. Or you can make some masking tape loops or use a bit of blu tac to hold the paper towel down closer to the surface. I found it useful when painting the area where the top of the fuselage on the Huey met the engine cowling.
Priceless Moments of Scale Modeling
By · CommentsEverytime my grandchildren come to visit the can’t help but notice all of the models I have on display. Our lower level aka “The Man Space” is my space and its decorum is all mine. As you might guess it has an aviation flavor which includes plenty of plastic scale models, posters, appliques, pictures and military memorabilia. Having such a space one can only expect certain questions from little children…
“Why do you have so many planes Grandpa?” Well this afternoon’s visit by my oldest son and his family had their oldest Hannah asking if she could build a model with me. During a previous visit I said we would build one together during her next visit…kids have memories better than an elephants! Well, fortunately there was a Snap-Tite car model kit in the stash and it was quickly moved from its place on the shelf to the work bench. My stool was moved a bit closer towards the bench for Hannah to work comfortably.
I handled the snipping of parts from the sprues, she did as much as she could during the assembly. “Some of those parts are hard to put together Grandpa? She did more of the assembly than I expected given this was her first experience with a kit. Her favorite part was of all things was applying the decals (stickers) which she did by following the pictures on the box and the instructions! There were a few “Where does this go?” but all in all she did 99% of the decaling and about 45% of the assembly herself.
After the model was completed, I added a drop of CA to each wheel hub to keep them from falling off. The model was wrapped in bubble wrap and packed carefully back into its box. A little masking tape to keep the box tightly closed, it was then packed inside her backpack for the trip home. She is looking forward to two things…taking it to Kindergarten for Show-n-Tell and meeting me at HobbyTown the evening of our next club meeting to pick out another Snap-Tite kit for our next session.
Hannah and her first model car.
To allure kids, spend some time with them, a Make-n-Take is a great experience, but one such as I had with my grand daughter is PRICELESS!
With five grandkids…I’d better start buying snap kits by the case!
TIP!: Weed the sticker sheet. Remove all of the background from around the stickers (decals) before they start to apply them. This makes it easier for them to remove them from the backing and helps them identify them better by shape.
Encore: Polishing Sticks
By · CommentsHere is a encore article from my old newsletter. It’s appearance has been prompted by the questions I’ve been asked from modelers of all skill levels. If you know of someone just getting started or looking to improve their techniques, please share this with them.
Let’s talk a bit about Polishing Sticks…you know those ultra fine sanding sticks that are used to buff ladies fingernails…and yes, models too. I’ll tell you that without them I probably wouldn’t be able to build a model. Sure there are paper and film sheets (sandpaper) in comparable grits, but they don’t necessarily offer the same type of control or application.
Polishing sticks come in several shapes, sizes and from various sources, however they are not all the same. Some are not very compatible with water or cleansers. Once they get wet they disintegrate, becoming useless. I routinely wet polish with them using either plain water or a diluted detergent to lift and suspend the residue of the material I am polishing, whether it is plastic, fillers or paint.
I use them for everything, from the raw assemble stage all the way through to final weathering and touch ups.
For instance: dressing seams for smoothness, sanding of primers and paints, glossing/de-glossing paint and decals, to scuffing surfaces to bring out details as part of weathering. Let’s take a closer look. The polishing stick itself usually has (varies by type) three surfaces, although this varies by type. The smooth surface on the back works well for rubbing in polishing compounds on clear canopies.
Polishing seams is probably the most common use for these sticks; they provide a natural progression of removing sanding marks left behind by sanding sticks or sandpaper. As any skilled and accomplished craftsmen will tell you…it’s all in the prep work.
Polishing sticks can be used to wet sand a primer in preparation to receive a color coat.
Polishing sticks can be used to address and correct the ‘Orange Peel’ effect of applied paint and smoothing before applying any sequential paint layers.
Use them to prep painted surfaces for decal application, whether the surfaces is glossy or flat…yes I said flat! Even gloss paints could possibly have some little bump or speck that protrudes up away from the surface. A quick light swipe with a polishing stick can knock that decal destroying blemish down.
When applying decals to flat surfaces the ’standard’ course of action is to apply a gloss overcoat so the decal has a smooth surface to snuggle onto. Well…I’m not a standard issue modeler so I will sometimes use a polishing stick in lieu of a gloss coat. Why add another layer to the process when you don’t necessarily need to?
Using the polishing stick, you can knock down the peaks of the paint’s surface to form a smooth ‘glossy’ surface suitable for decal application. I find this technique very effective when using ‘premium’ decals. The decals seem to settle down into the paint (with a setting solvent) more convincingly to appear as if they were actually ‘painted on’ just as real markings were. This process eliminates the de-glossing of the gloss layer applied just for the purpose of decaling. It also sets the stage for better weathering effects…which is a topic for a future newsletter.
Now that the decals are down, snug, and cured…you may want to take some of their sheen away…again a gentle rub with a polishing stick can accomplish that task too. It’s also a good idea (IHO) to scuff the decal slightly to accept any overcoats or weathering you might apply. A polishing stick can also be used to ease/correct or erase weathering effects.
Weathering with polishing sticks…a concept hard to accept or convert to by some long time builders. Weathering models realistically is important, which is more evident in larger scales. Real machines weather from environmental forces. Sunlight fades paint, parts flex and repeated removal/installation causes scratching and chipping. Abrasion is caused by debris in the air, crew members feet…you get the idea.
So, in reality, certain weathering is a removal process. (Sure, liquid stains are additive, but that comes later in the process, separate from the topic at hand. Modelers add pen, pencil and paint to replicate these effects of weathering, but isn’t that going about it backwards? Instead of adding, shouldn’t you be removing? Try using a polishing stick!
I’m a bit biased on using NMF paints as a ‘primer’, but given that the object is made of metal wouldn’t it be prudent to start with that as a base? It doesn’t have to be involved or complicated, just the basic metal skin color…aluminum for example. Using that as the ‘base’ color, you then gently use a polishing stick to remove the outer layer of paint to expose the underlying metal skin, thus creating a scratch, scuff, chip or faded effect
more realistically by removing material not adding more.
As modelers get better with their build quality, they also get scrutinized closer…and when you shoot a picture of your work…every little thing missed by the naked eye lights up in neon through the cameras lens. Those light dabs of silver paint applied to show ‘boot scuffs’ on the wing, show up looking the way they were applied…added to the outer layer of paint. Again there are many methods of ‘removal’ to get this effect, but polishing sticks are probably one of the fastest and easiest to use.
Polishing sticks are an essential tool in my model building, without them I’d be lost. Over the course of time I have found other uses for them as well. I use them to occasionally clean and hone the needles of my airbrushes. That fine tip of a needle can sometimes get a bit out of point, so I’ll hone them with a polishing stick. The metal surface of an airbrush needle can also become pitted from harsh paints and solvents…the polishing stick can ease that surface back smooth.
I hope you have a new respect for polishing sticks…if you are not using them now, stop by your local store that carries fingernail care products or your local hobby shop…you’ll find them there.
Read the follow on comments posted by our readership, lots more good info included there too.
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